Here in Fuerteventura the water is comparatively warm: sometimes it feels warmer than the air temperature and frequently like a bath that is filled with epsom salts and has been left standing for an hour. Yet surfing is popular here and I want to learn, but don't like the idea of suiting up or see why I should, if I am happy to spend hours in the ocean swimming. As long as you move you don't get cold, right?
A trip to the popular Flagbeach (below) a week or two ago taught me a lesson I will never forget.
Sometimes here I lie awake before dawn because I can't wait to get up and start my day, but don't want to wake my sleep passenger. In London that only happened at weekends - weekdays, I clung to my duvet, like a feathery shield, postponing the day on the train and in the office. I woke up that morning as the sun rose, with clear blue skies spreading like giant kingfisher wings engulfing the islands. The sound of dead leaves rattling in the breeze against the door promised wind and waves. It was cool, fresh and windy when I stepped outside, the perfect morning for practising some body-boarding and a swim. We drove to our usual beach, a white sandy expanse of about 300 metres, edged by volcanic rocks and usually only a handful of people. However, the tide was high and the waves breaking too close to shore for riding, so Dominick suggested we try a different beach with a more conducive facing to catch the waves. We headed north and found parking near Flagbeach which is popular for surfing, kite surfing and wind surfing.
The waves definitely looked bigger and stronger, breaking further out and already people were speeding across them with kites, bouncing 20 feet into the air and landing back in the water. No one was swimming and everyone in the water was wearing wetsuits. Wusses I thought as I gamely headed into the sea. It was colder than I expected but not unbearable. Dominick stayed on the dunes watching the kite surfers, as he intends to take lessons. I ran back for the virgin body board and dived back in the water.
I ended up in way over my head quite literally. The waves, whilst no more than 6-8 feet were faster and more frequent and powerful than I have ever experienced. The other major difference here is that in the UK the ground does not drop out beneath your feet, you can paddle and wade in and it takes a long while to get in waist deep. Here you can be up to your ankles and then waist deep with the next step - it's really steep and the sand so soft there is no grip. I suddenly got pulled under and over and didn't know which way was up. My bikini bottoms were ripped down to my knees. At first I just laughed, tried to regain my modesty and waved at Dominick that I was fine, as I found footing. As I was righting myself another wave broke over me, blinding me and the next completely barrelled me over.
I couldn't get to my feet as one wave threw me over like a piece of flotsam and the next pulled me back out. I caught a glimpse of where I was being dragged and realised that I was perilously close to the kite surfers. One clip with a board and I would be gone. I saw Dominick get to his feet looking concerned. At the same moment I lost my grip of the body board and the leash tangled itself around my neck and under I went. It was my first time not feeling in control when in the ocean. I couldn't even get the right way round to swim and the incessant crash of the waves was so powerful I couldn't disentangle myself from the leash - the more I tried, the more it tightened with the pull of the waves. Next thing I knew I was face down on the bottom sucking up lungfuls of sand trying to breathe. There were a few seconds between waves when I managed to get to the surface, choking and snorting up sand - a new experience as I don't think I ever ate sand, even as an adventurous toddler. I pulled the cord off my neck and the board took to the air as easily as if it were a balloon or a kite. The next wave dragged me across the sand into the shallower water for about 15 feet skinning my knee and shin raw. Modesty forgotten, I crawled out like some prehistoric creature that had just learnt to walk on land. Every orifice, including my ass, was caked full of sand and I spent the next few minutes coughing sand up as Dominick looked rather worried and decided not to go in the sea this time.
I gained a whole new respect both for the ocean and the surfers who wear wet suits. They aren't simply for the cold - they protect you against the burn of sand and rocks which can rip the skin of you in a few short seconds.
It was a rather subdued Nina that walked across the dunes to the car, coughing up bits of sand. Still when we got home Dominick got the pleasure of hosing me down as I couldn't go into the apartment as a human sand bag!
From now on I will stick to the beaches I know and that have other people swimming in them, enjoy the nudity and when it's time, I will definitely suit up!
Well some of the nudity at least...











This was also painted by Tracey and is now serving as a curtain in my kitchen to protect the passing kids on their way to school from seeing my naked breakfast making! I love the stained glass effect I get in the morning when the sun shines through it.


