The F-Word Part 2: Of Flies and Fish

Perhaps it will come as some consolation if you’re stuck at work reading this, it’s not all fun and frolics on this island off the coast of Africa. Pests do abound as I discovered on our first morning here a few weeks ago.

I remember from our January visit that tiny cockroaches got everywhere in the self-catering apartment we stayed in, but they were small and I put it down to our choice of budget accommodation. It never occurred to me that these wee beasties were just babies and that they grow to the size of the mouth of a pint glass and even longer if you count their feelers. This is about two-thirds of the actual size.

   These prehistoric-looking creatures scuttle more rapidly than I could ever have imagined and you can get an excellent work-out chasing them with a shoe, but they are pretty hardy and usually survive the first few whacks, should you be quick enough to catch them. I’ve never actually encountered such large insects outside of a zoo. We discovered that every household needs a can of Raid and quickly obtained some. Dirty plates, used cups and every crumb must be cleaned up fastidiously and immediately to detract them. All food including in cupboards must be sealed tightly at all times. Otherwise you will find them having left-over parties in the kitchen, leaving piles of black poop up the walls and wherever they move. And definitely no toast and tea in bed! However, comparing this unanticipated challenge to the alternative of commuting on a train squashed against strangers for three hours every day to spend 8 hours in an office with mice running around, I’d definitely take las cucarachas.

  Mosquitos also abound, but it’s definitely worse if you are near water. In the holiday villa we rented a few weeks ago there was a pool and this seemed to invite mosquitos in droves. Unfortunately we didn’t see them, just the bites they left. These take forever to heal and are itchy for about a week. I have had several on me including two on my face, whilst they seem to prefer Dominick’s feet. You can’t really avoid them, but you can stay covered up (I am seriously considering adopting the hijab if I get anymore on my face!) although that’s not really ideal when it gets up to 80F in the day and doesn’t drop below 72F at night and there is no air conditioning apart from in some of the supermarkets. You can also buy wristbands which emit citrus odours to deter them, but they are only really efficient if you wear them on each wrist and ankle. Or you can spray every four hours with insect repellent and hope for the best. It doesn’t seem like the locals get bitten as much as us, so we’re hoping that we get some kind of immunity after so many weeks/bites.

  The biggest bane are the flies – you can’t eat outside anywhere without having swarms of them landing on you and your food and they do not take a siesta either so it makes sunbathing impossible. I am so glad we brought our electronic fly swatters! Mysteriously as the sun sets at 6 they all vanish and so eating out in the evening is the best time.

  Not all the creatures cause a nuisance though – the butterflies and dragon flies are enormous and beautiful. Lizards are common to spot around the apartment and help with the flies. The birds and chipmunks are relatively unafraid of people and will even eat from your hand in some places.

There are no sheep or cows or really much in the way of agricultural farming because the island is mostly desert and there is nowhere for them to graze. The most common sight are the goats. We took an off road journey and found a dog herding them (see below), which was rather odd, but not another human in sight for miles. The goats provide milk, cheese and meat and for the island and roam freely throughout the mountains.

  Best of all though F is for Fish and this is in glorious tasty abundance. I’ve never enjoyed such delicious prawns, shellfish, sea bass, dorado, snapper and tuna mostly caught fresh on the shores that morning. Fish has quickly replaced my life-time favourite of fillet steak. It is the staple, and really only other available, protein that is not imported from Spain or further afield. Luckily we’re both fans of fish and goats cheese!

Overall flies and fish win out over “mice and men” for me. I realise that there is no complete freedom from challenges and stresses, but what I can do is choose which ones I prefer to be fettered by and adapt to them.